A player recently asked me:
“People always say wenwan walnuts should be both handled and brushed. Is there a particular brushing method that helps them develop color and patina more evenly?”
The short answer is yes.
Handling may get most of the attention, but brushing is just as important—especially during the early stages. It removes dust and surface residue, distributes the natural oils from your hands into the deeper grooves, and helps the entire walnut age more evenly.
Years ago, wenwan players did not discuss brushes nearly as much as they do today. That does not mean brushing is a modern gimmick. We simply have better tools now, so it makes sense to use them properly.
Choosing the Right Brush
Different brushes serve different purposes.
Soft Wire Brush

For raw, uncleaned walnuts, a soft wire brush can be used during the initial cleaning and preparation stage.
Avoid stiff wire brushes. Walnut shells can be damaged by overly hard bristles, leaving scratches and visible lines across the surface. A brush should clean the walnut—not carve into it.
If your walnuts have already been professionally cleaned, you can usually skip the wire brush and begin with a firm nano brush instead.
Nano Brush

Despite the name, a nano brush is simply a synthetic-bristle brush. It is the most practical everyday option for removing dust, cleaning the grooves, and maintaining an even surface.
A firm nano brush is particularly useful during the early stage, while a softer one works well for regular maintenance.
Boar-Bristle Brush

Traditional boar bristles naturally retain a small amount of oil, even after being processed and degreased. Many players use this brush later in the process when a walnut appears dry or develops color slowly.
It should not be treated as a shortcut or a replacement for regular handling. Think of it as a finishing and maintenance brush rather than the main cleaning tool.
Three Ways to Brush Wenwan Walnuts

There is no need to make brushing complicated. Most situations can be handled with three basic techniques.
1. Brush Along the Grain
Follow the direction of the walnut’s natural ridges, moving either from the tip toward the base or from the base toward the tip.
This clears dust more effectively than rapidly scrubbing back and forth. It works especially well on varieties with relatively shallow or open grain, such as Mopan, Cui Kai Gongzi Mao, and Toad Head.
This is the method I use most often.
2. Brush with a Circular Motion
Place the brush firmly against one area and move it in small circles. After cleaning that section, move to the neighboring area and repeat.
A little pressure helps the bristles reach into recessed areas that ordinary strokes may miss. This method is particularly useful for walnuts with deep, dense, or fragmented grain, including varieties such as Mantianxing and ant-grain Nanjiangshi.
Do not press so hard that the bristles scrape or polish only one spot.
3. Tap with the Brush
Lightly tap the walnut with the brush instead of dragging the bristles across its surface. The movement helps loosen dust trapped deep inside the grain.
Work slowly and keep a firm grip on the walnut. It is surprisingly easy to drop one while tapping, and a fall onto a hard floor can damage the tip, edges, or base.
Brushing at Different Stages

Your brushing routine should change as the walnuts develop.
Early Stage: Cleaning and Preparation
When you first receive raw walnuts, dry brushing helps remove dust and the pale, chalky residue that may appear on the shell.
During the first one or two weeks, brush them regularly and pay close attention to the valleys, base, and areas around the tip. Some players spend close to an hour a day brushing at this stage, but consistency matters more than following an exact number of minutes.
If the walnuts were delivered pre-cleaned, begin with a nano brush rather than a wire brush.
Middle Stage: Handling and Brushing Together
Once the surface is clean, handling and brushing should work together.
After a handling session, brush the walnuts for around 20–30 minutes. This helps spread the moisture and natural oils from your hands across the high points and into the grooves, while also removing fresh dust before it becomes embedded.
Two or three hours of handling every day is not a requirement. Play at a pace that fits your routine. Regular, clean sessions will usually produce a better result than forcing long sessions with sweaty or dirty hands.
Resting Stage
Walnuts also need time away from your hands.
After handling and brushing, place them in a breathable cloth pouch or a clean drawer. This resting period allows the surface to dry and continue reacting naturally with the air.
Avoid sealing freshly handled walnuts inside an airtight container, and keep them away from water, added oil, direct sunlight, and sudden temperature changes.
Patience Is Still the Most Important Tool

Brushing can improve cleanliness, consistency, and the way a pair develops, but it cannot replace time.
There is no brush that can create a mature patina overnight. The best results come from a simple routine: clean hands, appropriate brushing, proper rest, and patience.
A good pair of wenwan walnuts is not finished in a few days. Its character is built slowly—and that is part of the ritual.